Come with me for 24 hours in Charlottesville and Richmond.
David and I needed a little overnight escape, so we pointed the car south and decided to explore a bit of Virginia. The plan was simple. Head to Charlottesville, make a few delicious stops along the way, and then continue on to Richmond before circling back home. In about twenty four hours we packed in a lot of eating, drinking, and wandering.
Our first stop was Barboursville Vineyards. It had been a minute since my last visit and I’m happy to report the vineyard absolutely still delivers. Established in 1976 by Italy’s Zonin family, the historic estate sits near the ruins designed by Thomas Jefferson for Governor James Barbour. Italian winemaker Luca Paschina, who has led the winery since 1990, helped pioneer Vitis vinifera in the region and the wines here remain some of Virginia’s most celebrated. It was a beautiful day to sit outside overlooking the vines and work our way through a tasting. I started with the Blanc de Noir 2015, followed by the Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2024 and the Allegrante Rosé 2024. When it came time for reds I leaned into the Barbera Reserve 2023, the Nebbiolo Reserve 2022, and of course the flagship Octagon 2021. A generous board of charcuterie and cheeses made the perfect companion to both the wines and the view.
Before leaving we walked over to the Barboursville ruins, the historic Jefferson designed mansion that burned in 1884. The stone remains are preserved and you can wander around the site which feels both peaceful and fascinating. It’s one of those small Virginia moments that reminds you how much history is tucked into the landscape.
From there we continued our drive to The Doyle Hotel in downtown Charlottesville. The building used to be a Cork Hotel so it maintains a bit of quirky charm, but the refreshed interiors are warm and welcoming. One of the first things that caught my eye was the large art installation in the lobby by Erin McIntosh. The quilted leaf installation titled Invasive Queer Kudzu features stitched quotes and sayings and was created as a collaborative project for Southern queers and their allies. It’s a striking piece and worth taking a moment to really look at.
We dropped our bags and headed out to stretch our legs on the Charlottesville Downtown Mall, one of the longest pedestrian malls in the country. The entire stretch is lined with shops, restaurants, and music spilling out onto the street. It was a gorgeous afternoon and the whole area felt lively. The Shenandoah National Park Trust Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival was in town, so people were everywhere.
Of course we popped into Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar because you know me and tea. The bohemian space has more than forty varieties of loose leaf tea and a wonderfully eclectic vibe. I ordered a Silver Peony, perfectly steeped and refreshing, before we headed back to the hotel to change for the evening.
Next stop was the Speakeasy + Whiskey Bar at The Doyle, where we had heard about bartender Joel Cuellar. The space is large but still intimate and the whole concept revolves around Joel creating cocktails based on what you like. There isn’t really a menu. You simply tell him what you’re in the mood for and he goes to work. It’s the kind of place where regulars clearly come back again and again.
Dinner that night was at Smyrna in Charlottesville where Chef Tarik Sengul is cooking refined Aegean and Turkish cuisine with the benefit of classical French training. On a Saturday night the room was buzzing. We started with the homemade farmer’s bread and a trio of meze that included charred eggplant, hummus, and a yogurt goat cheese dip. That charred eggplant ended up slathered all over the bread and it was exactly the start we needed. I was craving something green so the market greens salad arrived piled high with Manakintowne herbs and brightened with white anchovies in lemon vinaigrette. The Raki Balik featured thick slabs of meaty hamachi with Meyer lemon and we also shared the chicken ballotine, who doesn’t love a stuffed deboned half chicken with lemon confit? Juicy and satisfying.
Back at the hotel I did what I often do when traveling and asked for a tea kettle. After a full evening of eating there is something lovely about ending the night with a quiet cup of tea before bed.
The next morning we went walking! First stop was Shenandoah Joe’s for coffee. Everyone told us it was the best coffee in Charlottesville and they may be right. Established in 1993, the small batch roaster hand roasts more than twenty five varieties of Arabica beans. I ordered a cortado which is just enough milk to soften the coffee but still let the flavor shine.
Coffee in hand we joined the line at Cou Cou Rachou, the French bakery from pastry chef Rachel De Jong, formerly of The Inn at Little Washington. Waiting in line turned into a pleasant chat with locals who happily told us their favorite pastries. When we finally reached the counter we ordered the Hamembert sandwich on spelt and wheat sourdough baguette filled with ham, Camembert cheese, and grainy mustard. I added a side of cornichons for seventy five cents because why not. Into the pastry box went a savory cheese twist, a potato and cheese tart, a chocolate crinkle cookie, and a beignet filled with pastry cream that immediately delivered a sugar rush.
We walked over to Dairy Market, Charlottesville’s lively food hall with local vendors, bowling at Sun Pins, and plenty of room to wander. I also found a clothing shop called Quattro Tizi where I wanted nearly everything on the racks. Given the amount of pastry I had just eaten, trying on clothes felt like a risky move, so we kept walking.
Soon enough it was time to head to Richmond. We didn’t have long there but I was thrilled to meet up with one of my college roommates who lives in town. Our first stop was Sub Rosa Bakery, the beloved wood fired bakery founded by siblings Evrim and Evin Dogu. The bakery mills its own organic grains in house and focuses on naturally leavened breads and pastries made with local ingredients. What’s one more ham and cheese croissant at this point. And the Shortbread cookies dotted with pistachios were too tempting to leave behind.
Our final stop was The Roosevelt, where Executive Chef Leah Branch leads the kitchen with inventive Southern cooking influenced by Appalachian traditions and African American culinary history. We grabbed seats at the bar, always one of my favorite places in any restaurant. We started with a thick slab of cornbread with whipped maple butter and followed it with the Munster en croute, a brick of Munster cheese wrapped in delicate filo dough and baked until crisp outside and melting inside. It was perfect slathered onto those fluffy biscuits. The barbecue spiced chicken wings with Alabama white sauce came out hot and crisp with juicy meat that snapped right off the bone.
There were plenty of things on the menu I wanted to try, but after nearly a full day of eating we had to pace ourselves. We heard a lot about the burger with rooster sauce and bacon jam so of course we ordered it andt our bartender suggested Mike’s Yock, a ramen style bowl with noodles, pork belly, hot pickles in a pork and chicken broth. He was right. It was fantastic. The cheese grits, made with grits from Sub Rosa across the street, were creamy and so cheesy.. For dessert we shared the Cheerwine cake, a classic yellow cake topped with frosting made from the cherry flavored North Carolina soda.
So if you’re thinking about a quick Virginia road trip and have about twenty four hours, Charlottesville and Richmond can deliver a lot of delicious moments.
Next time in Charlottesville I have my eye on Black Cow Chophouse, Feast, and Gearharts for chocolate. And in Richmond I’m hoping to visit Lafayette Tavern,, Slack Tide Fish Co., and Mama J’s Kitchen.
Come with me next time. We’ll eat our way through it.